Thanksgiving Traditions

It never fails, every Wednesday before Thanksgiving day, you will find me in the kitchen late at night baking the pumpkin pies. Always two, crust first and filled with the pumpkin pie filling on the back of the can of Libby's pumpkin. These pies look homemade, from the imperfect zigzags of the pastry to the small fissures in the center of the custard. For certain, this is not haute cuisine, but it is the kind of nostalgic cooking on which traditions are based.

Thanksgiving is, perhaps, the most traditional of the food holidays, marked by tables laden with recipes handed down through generations. The menu rarely, if ever, changes.

This year, like nearly every other, the cook in me wanted to tweak some of the recipes - add ginger to the cranberry relish, omit the marshmallows on the sweet potatoes (I admit, I like them...) or try some exciting new dish from Gourmet Magazine. In the end, we succumb to the cries of horror from our families and friends, shocked that we would dare change the sacred feast.

After the flurry of activity during the last 20 minutes before the meal is served, we finally sit down to the table with a glass of wine and a ridiculously overfilled plate. At that moment, I have to admit, I am very glad that everything is as it should be - unchanging, comforting and familiar.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Comfort Soups

Every so often, we all have the kind of day that leaves us feeling weary, stressed or maybe even a little under the weather. These are the times when everyone needs an unfussy, reliable "comfort" soup that can be quickly prepared without much thought. These are, by nature, dishes that are perfect for improvisation. A rustle through the pantry and refrigerator drawers for some staple items and produce is all that is needed to get you started on this quick potato soup so that you can start feeling better.

If you are so inclined, a quick bread such as these biscuits, can be prepared quickly while the soup is simmering, offering additional comfort from the stresses of daily life.

While this soup is one of those spontaneous creations borne from the coffers of the refrigerator that you should feel free to alter, here is the approximate recipe:

Comfort Potato Soup

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 yellow onion, diced
1 carrot, peeled and diced
2 celery stalks, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
4 cups chicken broth (low sodium, if using canned)
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
1/4 cup Italian parsley leaves, chopped plus additional for garnish
1/2 cup whole milk or cream
Coarse salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
Equipment: immersion blender or regular blender

In a medium pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, melt the butter and saute the onion, carrot, celery and garlic until the vegetables soften, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken broth, and bring the mixture to a gentle boil. Add the diced potatoes and parsley leaves, and simmer until the potatoes are very tender, about 15 minutes.

Using an immersion blender, puree about half of the soup to thicken, leaving some of the vegetables in chunks. If using a regular blender, puree about 2 cups of the mixture in small batches, taking care to leave the top of the blender open to allow the release of heat. Add the milk or cream, warm gently and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately with warm bread or biscuits.

Serves 4