Pork Cutlets with Pears and Port Sauce

Pork and pears are a natural combination. Both are most appealing in the fall/winter months and conjure up images of the kind of delicious fare one might find at a farmhouse in France. This dish is what I would call quick comfort food – certainly practical for a weeknight, yet satisfying enough to make your family look forward to dinner. Here is the recipe:

Pork Cutlets with Pears and Port Sauce

2 Bosc or Bartlett pears, ripe but not soft, peeled, cored and quartered
2 T unsalted butter
8 boneless pork cutlets, sliced thin
flour for dredging
1 t dried thyme
2 T olive oil
¼ c minced red onion
½ c Tawny port
¾ c low sodium chicken broth
1 T flour
1 T unsalted butter
salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet (not nonstick!), melt 2 T butter and saute pears on medium heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.

Prepare a dredging plate of several tablespoons of flour with the thyme leaves, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Heat 1/2 T of olive oil in the skillet until hot. Lightly dredge the pork cutlets in the flour and saute 1 to 2 minutes on each side until just cooked and lightly browned. Work in batches of 2 cutlets at a time with 1/2 T olive oil per batch and transfer pork to a platter kept in a warm oven.

When the pork cutlets are cooked, add the red onion to the pan and saute about 2 minutes until slightly tender. Pour in the port and deglaze the pan for 2 minutes, scraping the browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Pour in all but 1 T of the broth and mix the remaining broth with the 1 T of flour in a small bowl for thickening of the sauce. Add flour mixture to skillet. Cook on medium heat until the sauce reduces by half, about ten minutes. Add 1 T butter to the sauce as well as salt and pepper to taste. Return the pears and pork to the sauce and combine.

Transfer the pork, pears and port sauce to a platter for serving.

Serves 4

Slowing Down Dinner

Slow down dinner...is he kidding? Shouldn't we be trying to speed things up? Yes, it is true, there are some days during the work week when nothing but the quickest, most efficient dinner preparations will due. However, on weekends and other days when we aren't as pressed for time, we can and should slow things down and enjoy the pleasures of a leisurely paced meal with our family. One of the best ways to do this is by preparing and sharing an appetizer and enjoying a glass of wine before even giving a thought to making the main course.

Appetizers, hors d'oeuvres, nibbles or whatever you like to call them need not be complicated or overly fussy. The days of trays of hot canapes passed by tuxedo-clad waitstaff are over. Modern appetizers tend to be more rustic and simple - small foods designed to whet the appetite and allow good conversation. A chilled glass of white wine is optional, but highly recommended!

The delicious plate of foods in the photo features a tasty spread of pureed edamame on slices of rustic bread. This appetizer sounds complicated, but it's a breeze to make. Here is the recipe, loosely adapted from a feature in Williams Sonoma's Wine and Food:

Edamame Crostini

1 c thawed and shelled frozen edamame (soybeans)
1/4 c olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
2 T fresh orange juice
1/2 t kosher salt
3 dashes Tabasco sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
3 T chopped mint
About 20 Crostini (slices of toasted rustic bread brushed with olive oil)

Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan on medium and add the garlic. Cook until fragrant but not brown, no more than one minute. Add the edamame and saute for five minutes, until the beans begin to soften. Dump the contents of the pan into a food processor and add the orange juice, Tabasco sauce, salt and pepper. Process until smooth, adding a bit more water or olive oil to make a cohesive paste, if required. Scrape the mixture into a small bowl and stir in 2 T of the mint.

Spread the edamame puree onto the crostini and garnish with the remaining mint leaves.

Serves 4

Wine: We like to have these crostini with a glass of well-chilled Sauvignon Blanc. The grassy, herbal flavors of the wine are delicious with the garlic and mint.

Dinner with Friends

Last night, we had a couple of our close friends over for dinner and enjoyed a delightful evening of good food, wine and conversation. Having friends over for dinner is a wonderful way to personalize your time together and make sharing food and wine a special event. There really is not, in our opinion, a better way to spend an evening.

Inviting friends over for dinner does involve more work than going to a restaurant - making sure the house is clean, choosing food and wine that will please your guests and setting the table to let your friends know that they are welcome in your home. With a little planning ahead, you can easily create an evening that everyone (including the cook!) will enjoy together.

Last night, we ended dinner with poached pears and a small slice of Ciambella, an Italian ring cake. The pears were especially welcome after all those heavy holiday desserts of the past month. Here is the recipe:

Spiced Poached Pears

2 cups bottled orange juice

1/2 c dry white wine

1 c. water

1/2 c sugar

1 cinnamon stick or 1/4 t ground cinnamon

5 whole cloves or 1/8 t ground cloves

5 cardamom pods, lightly bruised

1 t vanilla extract

4 Bosc or other pears, peeled with stems intact

Combine the first eight ingredients in a medium-sized saucepan or Dutch oven and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to a simmer and add the pears. The poaching liquid should cover about three quarters of each pear. Add a bit more water, if necessary.

Gently poach the pears for 20 to 30 minutes, keeping the liquid at a bare simmer. Turn the pears now and then to cook evenly. The pears are done when they can easily be pierced with a knife but are not falling apart. Allow the pears to cool in the poaching liquid when done.

The pears can be served warm, drizzled with the poaching liquid or can be chilled (overnight is fine) in the refrigerator to serve cold. Allow 1/2 to 1 pear per person.

Serves 4 to 8, depending on portion size

Variation: You can serve the whole pears as a dessert by themselves by slicing a small section off the bottom of each pear to stand upright on a plate. Drizzle with a thickened chocolate sauce, allowing the sauce to puddle around the bottom of the plate.

Bread for Dinner

What is it about homemade bread that makes a dinner special? The crisp outer crust with a tender, feathery interior - perfect for soaking up all the delicious juices that run over the plate. That seductive, yeasty aroma coming from the kitchen immediately lets everyone know that good things will be happening at the table that night.

In its purest form, bread is really the simplest combination of very humble ingredients - flour, water, salt and yeast. In more elaborate forms, it may be enriched with butter, eggs, milk and countless toppings and fillings to make it something even more special. Bread truly represents culinary magic - combining just a few ingredients to create something utterly unlike anything that goes into the recipe.

It is true, the best artisanal breads made at home do require time and patience. Long, leisurely rising times are the key to well-developed flavor in bread. That is not a reason, however, to forgo making bread for dinner altogether. Take these dinner rolls in the photo, for instance. The dough for dinner rolls can be quickly mixed, allowed to rise in the late afternoon and be shaped and baked right before dinner. They are very delicious with a pat of butter and ensure that your dinner at home will be a special event.

Dinner Rolls

Adapted from The Joy of Cooking, Parker House Rolls

1 c whole milk
2 T unsalted butter, softened
1 T sugar
3/4 t salt
2 T warm water
2 1/4 t yeast
1 egg
3 1/2 c flour

Heat milk in a small saucepan until warm. Stir in the butter, sugar and salt until the sugar dissolves. Allow to cool to lukewarm.

In a large bowl, combine the yeast and warm water. Allow the yeast to dissolve for 5 minutes. Stir the lukewarm milk mixture into the bowl with the yeast. Beat in the egg.

Stir in about half of the flour with a spoon and knead in the rest. The dough should be smooth and slightly sticky. Adjust the amount of flour slightly to achieve a smooth dough. Place the dough ball into an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 60-90 minutes.

When the dough has risen, turn onto a lightly floured surface and shape into two logs. Cut one dozen uniform pieces of dough from each log, and shape into the desired form. For round rolls, shape the dough into a round, pinching the loose edges of dough at the bottom of the roll.

Place rolls on greased cookie sheets, twelve rolls to a sheet. Cover with a damp kitchen towel, and let rise for about 30 minutes. Bake in a preheated 425 F oven until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack, and serve the day they are made.

Yield: About 24 rolls

New Holiday Cookie Recipes

This year for Christmas, I was once again attempting to shake things up and try something new. It was a busy month at work, so a lot of the traditional cookies I would normally make (Rum-flavored sugar cookies, Mexican wedding cookies and others) did not happen in 2008. Along with the traditional molasses spice cookies (somehow, these always get made...), I decided to make a type of "holiday" rugelach. Having never before attempted these beautiful Jewish cookies, I turned to Ina Garten, whose recipes, while heavy on the butter, have never failed me.

Ina's recipe for rugelach (http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/rugelach-recipe/index.html) is very easy-to-follow. I substituted a mixture of chopped pecans, dried cranberries and raisins for her walnut/raisin mixture to make them more "Christmas-like". Be forewarned - these cookies are not for the beginner! The recipe involves chilling dough, rolling out dough and carefully assembling the cookies with their filling. The result is very rewarding - a tender, not-too-sweet cookie that practically melts in your mouth. These cookies received rave reviews from family and friends alike. Definitely a keeper!

Julia Child - Still Relevant and Forever a Culinary Icon

It's hard to imagine a more influential culinary icon than Julia Child. When fine cuisine was still considered something mystical and only enjoyed in exotic places like Paris, Julia Child brought these seemingly impossible dishes into our homes and changed the American food landscape. Yes, she is known for using copious quantities of butter, cream, cognac and other frighteningly rich ingredients, but the techniques and recipes she brought to the world are still quite relevant. While American tastes have changed in favor of a lighter approach to cooking, Julia's books and TV shows will always be around to remind us of the importance of learning and applying solid techniques in the kitchen to produce dishes that are essential to our culinary repertoire.

The dish in this photo is Julia's Gratin Dauphinois. Sounds fancy, doesn't it? This extremely delicious side dish is more commonly known as Scalloped Potatoes "au gratin". Yes, the very same dish that can now be purchased off the shelf with an easy-to-prepare dehydrated potato medley and a packet of powdered cheese. Trust me when I say this - we all deserve better!

Gratin Dauphinois in one of those essential, everyday dishes that can be prepared quickly and easily for a weeknight meal. This recipe will be even simpler if you have a sturdy mandoline capable of slicing potatoes into perfect one eighth inch-thick medallions, but a sharp knife works too. I don't bother to peel the potatoes, but by all means do so if you prefer them peeled. This is the ideal side dish with meat loaf, ham or other "comfort" foods. Here is my slightly modified version of Julia's recipe from "The French Chef" cookbook:

Gratin Dauphinois

4 medium-sized red potatoes
1 cup whole milk
1 small clove garlic, minced
1 t. kosher salt
1/8 t. freshly ground black pepper
2 T. unsalted butter
2 T. chopped Italian parsley (optional)

Equipment: shallow baking dish (the white Corning-type is perfect)

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Slice the potatoes with a mandoline or knife to a 1/8 inch thickness and immerse in a bowl of water. Add milk, garlic, salt, pepper and butter to a small saucepan, and bring to a boil. Remove from heat.

Arrange one layer of potato slices in the baking dish and drizzle with about half of the hot milk mixture. Arrange the remainder of the potatoes in the dish and add the rest of the milk mixture. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 25 minutes. The milk should be absorbed, and the potatoes should be tender and lightly browned.

Let the potatoes rest for about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and serve.

Serves 3 to 4

Bon Apetit!

Rediscovering Merlot

Looking back over the years at my relationship with wine, I clearly remember my interest in reds beginning with Merlot. Back in the 90s, Merlot was the wine to drink. Soft tannins, flavors of plum and cocoa - this was the perfect introduction to red wine. That first bottle of Sterling had me hooked. Sadly, as with most fads, overproduction led to the downfall of Merlot. Since the movie "Sideways", Merlot has become almost as maligned a wine as Chardonnay. Trite, thin and often overly sweet - that's what most wine connoisseurs now think of when you say Merlot. What a shame. While the wine market is saturated with many examples of bad Merlot, there are quite a few producers (some in unexpected places!) throughout the world breathing new life into this grape.

Historically, the production of Merlot grapes is based in the Bordeaux region of France. There, Merlot is used primarily as a blending grape, adding a certain suppleness and grace to the powerful tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot is, in fact, more widely planted in France than Cabernet. In the United States, Merlot has been used quite commonly as a single varietal wine with a large presence in California and Washington.

California has some of the best and the worst examples of Merlot. While there are some "boutique" wineries producing some very good Merlot, the mass market is largely low quality wine. Duckhorn is probably the most famous Merlot high-quality producer, but expect to pay close to $100 per bottle. A recent Merlot tasting in Wine Spectator magazine revealed a pretty dismal picture of California Merlot with very few high-scoring wines.

We have found that excellent Merlot is being produced in the Monterey/Carmel region of California, where the cool weather seems to suit this grape. Tastings at Chateau Julian and Georis Winery left us impressed with the character and terroir expressed in the wines. Prices in this region are moderate.

Outside of California, Washington is a wonderful source for some delicious and affordable Merlot. Columbia Crest, Covey Run and Snoqualmie and all easy-to-find labels to know when shopping for Washington Merlot.

Don't be afraid to try Merlots produced outside of the United States. Indeed, there are some excellent wines being produces in some very unusual places. The above photo shows the Santa Ema Reserve Merlot 2005 from Chile's Maipo Valley. This is a very impressive Merlot for the price point (about $12/bottle) with flavors of plum and chocolate backed with elegant tannins. This is one to purchase by the case for everyday drinking. Another great country for Merlot is Italy. Falesco is a reliable Italian producer that is easy to find in large wine shops.

Whether you look to Italy, Chile or right here in the U.S., don't forget about Merlot. Like fondue, gelatin and other seemingly hopeless food "trends", Merlot is overdue for a comeback.